Soup with Potato Pete

Vichyssoise and Potage of Potatoes and Leeks, both with Sorrel Butter

DURING WORLD WAR II in the UK, every child and every housewife knew Potato Pete. The rotund, anthropomorphic potato wore a jaunty hat, spats, and well-polished black shoes. He greeted the kids and their mothers from posters, newspaper ads, and the popular radio show, The Kitchen Front. He marched through film shorts advertising the nutritional value of potatoes. He encouraged housewives to cook potatoes in their skin and save the cooking water for soups. He reminded them that his potatoes were grown in Britain and did not need to be shipped across the U-Boat-infested seas. “Remember spuds don’t come on ships,” Pete told English cooks.

Lord Woolton, the head of the Ministry of Food and an advocate for Potato Pete, often had lunch with media executives to make sure they gave his policies full exposure. Most likely, the Lord ate potatoes at his business lunches, probably in the form of Woolton Pie. This classic WWdishes—soups,II recipe featured root vegetables (including lots of potatoes) encased in a crust. According to Lord Woolton, eating potatoes daily was a patriotic duty.

Those who have the will to win,

Cook potatoes in their skins,

Knowing that the sight of peelings,

Deeply hurts Lord Woolton’s feelings.

(A popular rhyme from the British Ministry of Food)

The Ministry of Food issued a Potato Pete recipe booklet filled with a wide variety of dishes ― soups, main dishes, puddings (that means dessert in England), and even potato bread and scones. Pete and Lord Woolton pushed serving potato soup for its nutrition and because a one-pot meal conserved cooking fuel. Londoners knew that one of the most comforting dishes on a cold winter evening during the Blitz was soup, as it could be cooked ahead and brought to the bomb shelter in a thermos.

Edith (a character both real and fictional in the novel Ashes and Ruins), like most British housewives at that time, served potatoes almost every day. The ubiquitous potato was also a staple food in her native Germany, so I’m sure she prepared Kartoffelklösse (potato dumplings) and Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes). Adding strong seasoning to boiled or mashed potatoes was an easy way to make them tastier. Curry powder, a pantry staple in England since the 1780s, was available using points, though sometimes quite dear. Not as good a gardener as her husband, George, still, Edith was able to grow common fresh herbs like parsley and chives while he was off fighting in North Africa. And she could forage for sorrel at her uncle’s country estate.

In December 1942, Edith prepared a special Christmas dinner for her family and two American GIs.

The meal began with small bowls of potato soup topped with a swirl of emerald-green, sorrel-enriched cream. (Ashes and Ruins, page 334)

Hot soup was a wonderful start to a winter meal. However, I worked to perfect the recipe below on a hot July afternoon, not the best time for cooking or eating soup. I wondered, what would Edith have served on a warm summer evening? Then I remembered my father (Edith’s older brother) loved cold Vichyssoise. Before air-conditioning was common, cold soups in summer were far more popular than they are now. Vichyssoise, a chilled and creamy delight, starts with the same base as hot potato soup. So here, I offer both recipes.

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Potato and Leek Soup—Hot or Cold—With Sorrel Cream or Sorrel Butter

For the Base

· 1 large leek (leeks are best for this recipe, but a white onion or a bunch of spring onions will do.)

· 2 medium potatoes. I used russets, but any white potato will be fine.

· 1 large clove of garlic

· 1 Tablespoon of butter, margarine, or other fat.

· 1 teaspoon salt

· Water to cover

Leeks and onions were not always available in wartime English greengrocers, but I’m sure, as determined as Edith was to impress those American GIs, she would have found one somehow. However, if no onion was available, a good basic soup could be made without it.

Cut off the root-end of the leek. Cut off the top-third (the tough part) and remove and discard the tough outer leaves. Split the leek lengthwise. Wash it carefully, making sure all grit is gone. Slice the leek halves as thinly as you can. When you get to the greenish top, strip away any tougher leaves and keep slicing the tender heart. You should have about one cup of thinly sliced leek. Peel the clove of garlic and cut it into slices. Add to the sliced leek.

Melt the butter or your fat of choice over medium heat in a largish pot. Add the leek and garlic and cook slowly until it softens.

While the leek cooks, peel and dice the potatoes. the pot, (see note below) When the leeks are softened, add the diced potatoes and stir so they are coated with the fat. Add salt and enough water to cover the potatoes by about a half inch. Bring to a boil. Cover pot, turn down the heat to medium, and simmer for about 20 to 30 minutes, or until the potato cubes are tender and starting to fall apart. Allow the potatoes to cool for at least 15 minutes with the lid off.

Puree the potatoes until all lumps are gone. An immersion blender is the simplest way, as you can puree them right in the pot. If you want to use a regular blender, be sure the potatoes are cooled to room temperature, or the blender top may explode off the blender from built-up steam. The potatoes should be like soft mashed potatoes, almost pourable, but not quite. You can add a little more water if needed. From two large potatoes and one leek, you should end up with a quart of potato puree.

Put the puree in a clean jar or container. It can be stored in the refrigerator and made into a finished soup within 4 or 5 days.

For the sorrel topping

· Two cups (loosely packed) fresh sorrel leaves (remove any tough stems)

· 1/8 cup heavy cream or half-and-half OR 4 tablespoons of softened butter

Mince the sorrel very fine. You can do this in a blender, a food processor, or by hand. Put the minced sorrel in a small bowl. For sorrel cream: add the cream and stir together. For sorrel butter: blend in the softened butter and mix with the minced herbs using the back of a spoon until well blended.

NOTE: The sorrel butter can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Use it to swirl on top of HOT potato soup. Note that when heated, the emerald color may darken. Sorrel butter is also wonderful on grilled fish or chicken breast.

Edith used a sorrel cream mixture on her Christmas soup. Butter was rationed, but canned cream or evaporated milk was available with points and could be used as a substitute for fresh cream. Also, with two children in the household under the age of five years, she would have two and a half to three gallons of milk each week. This made it possible for her to indulge her family with creamed soups and custards if they could get enough eggs.

The sorrel cream mixture will only last 1 day in the refrigerator and is better if made fresh. It is delicious and beautiful swirled on top of Vichyssoise, as well as stirred into hot potato soup.

Vichyssoise for two

· 2 cups of cold potato and leek puree

· 1 cup half-and-half (or whole milk)

· 1/2 cup heavy cream

· Salt and white pepper to taste

· a dash of cayenne

· 2 to 4 Tablespoons of sorrel cream mixture

· 2 Tablespoons chopped chives for garnish (optional)

Stir the puree, half-and-half, and cream together until fully blended. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Be careful not to over-season—cold intensifies the flavor. Be sure to taste. Add a little more half-and-half or a small amount of water if needed to make the soup the consistency you like.

Return the mixture to the refrigerator (cover with a lid or plastic wrap) and chill for at least an hour.

Ladle into chilled bowls. Top with a dollop of sorrel cream and a few scattered chopped chives for garnish. A dollop of sour cream is also delicious.

Serve immediately to ensure the soup is luxuriously chilled.

Potage of Potato and Leek for Two

· 2 cups of premade potato and leek puree

· 1 cup liquid: water/vegetable broth/milk (or a combination)

· 1/2 cup heavy cream or half-and-half.

· 2 to 4 Tablespoons of sorrel butter or sorrel cream mixture.

· 2 Tablespoons of chopped chives and 2 to 3 tablespoons of sour cream for garnish (optional)

Mix the potato and leek puree with the liquid until well blended. Heat on a medium flame until very hot, stirring occasionally. Add the cream or half-and-half and stir frequently while the soup heats again. surface, allow it to boil, but it should be very hot. Add a little more liquid if needed to make the soup the consistency you like.

Ladle into bowls and top with sorrel butter or sorrel cream. Stir the topping just enough to create a swirl effect on the surface, or stir it until blended in, depending on the look you like. Top with chives and sour cream, if you want.

Please send me your thoughts if you try these recipes. Or even if you simply have fun reading them!